The Mushroom Pâté began as a vegetarian spin on a traditional chicken liver pâté, but soon revealed itself to be much more. The recipe and the cooking process are almost identical in all respects, creating an incredibly soft, creamy texture, yet bursting with new breaths of earthy, umami flavor notes. Served with thick shavings of preserved truffle and bites of pickled mushrooms, it’s best when smeared hastily onto slices of warm, toasted sourdough.

Le Crocodile | Wythe Hotel, Brooklyn | 718 460 8004 | www.lecrocodile.com

Breakfast M – F 7h – 11h, S/SU 7h – 10h
Lunch M – F 11h – 15h
Après Midi M – SU 15h – 17h
Dinner SU – W 17h – 22h, TH – S 17h – 23h
Brunch S/SU 10h – 15h

There’s a sort of salade lyonnaise — I say sort of because the lardons you’d find in Lyon have been replaced by smoked eel. The idea is great; the salad is smokier than the original, and with the wonderful added oily softness of the eel. – Pete Wells