I asked for Roquefort. The cheesemonger unwrapped the wheel and offered me a taste. I love this classic blue and nodded happily as the salty bite of the cheese hit my tongue. Then, looking rather sly, he unwrapped another wheel, scooped up a small bit and held it out. “Now taste this,” he said.
The flavor was extraordinary, and unlike anything I’ve experienced before. It was round, deep, rich, slightly sweet, and fruity with that blue edge that hovers on aching intensity. The texture was tender as fudge.
“What is it?” I asked.
“Rogue River Blue,” he replied. “And don’t ask the price.”
Of course I had to. Choking a bit, I studied the leaf-wrapped blue-veined cheese, wondering aloud how it’s made.
“They make the cheese with summer milk then wrap it in Syrah grape leaves that have been soaked in Clear Creek Pear Brandy. Then they leave it to age for a year.”
This special Rogue River Blue is remarkable stuff. It costs a fortune, but it’s a rare treat, available in limited quantities during the fall. Try to taste it now because it’s usually gone by Christmas.
You don’t want to miss this.
(If you don’t want to order an entire wheel, you can buy it at Rubiner’s in Great Barrington, Massachusetts or Murray’s Cheese nationwide.) – Ruth Reichl
